Backpacking Sykes Hot Springs in Big Sur (2D/1N)
Trip Details:
- Total distance: 22 miles
- Total elevation gain: 6,122 feet
- Route Type: Out and back on maintained trails
- Wilderness Area: Ventana Wilderness
- Season: Accessible anytime but you would probably roast in the summer
- Permits: Fill it out at the trailhead
March 14-15, 2026
My passion for hot tubs is only increased by throwing said tub deep in the wilderness. Sykes Hot Springs is a natural geothermal feature located ten miles, big climbs, and substantial river crossings into the Big Sur Wilderness. The trail winds in and out of coastal redwood forest and exposed areas of ridgeline with views of Ventana Double Cone & the Pacific Ocean. Damage to due to the Soberanes Wildfire in 2016 followed by winter flooding in 2017 closed the trail for many years. The floods and/or the Forest Service (sources unclear) demolished the tubs during this time. Pictures you may see online of a majestic tub adjacent to the river sadly no longer exist. However, there is still a large tub that can fit 4 people (maybe more, cozily) about 20 feet into rockface above the river, and a smaller one person tub just below it. There are a few other pools where the hot water collects that could use some digging or wall-building (if you feel inclined toward illegal activity in the backcountry).
Day 1: Pine Ridge Trailhead to Sykes Hot Springs Camp
I spent Friday night at the Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park Campground, which was an egregious $60/night, although it did have flush toilets and soap. Even though we were camped right next to the Pine Ridge Trail access, we had to exit the park and drive about half a mile down the highway to reach the overnight parking lot. There’s an iron ranger where you pay $10 per day of parking.
Shasta and I hopped on the trail, walked back through the campground and past our campsite, and began the big ascent. Thankfully, a lot of the climb is in the forest, because the day was already shaping up to be a hot one. The exposed portions were also still in the shade in the morning.
At the 5 mile mark we descended into Terrace Creek Campsite, which was very lovely and had some nice flat sites situated next to the creek, as well as a wilderness toilet. I should have taken a lunch break here, but as I was anxious to reach camp, I crushed a bar and continued on. The brutality of the hike really could have been mitigated by more calories, and even though I knew I was bonking, I was not in the mood to stop.
In another 2 miles we reached Barlow Flat Camp, which seems to be where most people pull the plug and set up camp, either making this a 3 day trip or just day hiking the final 3 miles (6-7 roundtrip) to the springs. I spent quite a while scoping out the river to make the crossing, as it seemed quite deep all over. Finally ended up returning to where the trail spits you and and crossing directly. Changed into my handy dandy crocs and trudged through the freezing cold, knee deep water. Shasta had a bit of a diagonal swim as she was pushed downriver, but enthusiastic swimmer that she is, I was not terribly concerned. I was more worried about her making a dramatic exit through a pile of poison oak that would later rub off on me.
The final 3 miles to camp really tested my mental and physical strength. First backpacking trip of the season, carrying not only my necessities, but Shasta’s not-ultralight bed, watercolors, sketchbook, chair, towels (for each of us). Questionable packing decisions for sure. I didn’t even do a lick of painting on this trip. Not to mention the anxiety over all the poison oak the two of us were brushing up against on the very lush trail. I was so tired that I didn’t even take a nice photo of our site at Sykes Camp! A true tragedy, as it was quite beautiful, set next to a redwood tree and on the bank above the crystal clear Big Sur River. During this trying emotional moment, I regretted how I would never come here again, because it was so soul crushing and yet so beautiful. Eventually, I did manage to find just enough energy to set up, make dinner, and lie down for about two hours.
This was sufficiently rejuvenating to embark on a late side quest to the springs, which are off trail and a bit of a scavenger hunt. Calories, you know?!
The way to the springs is not very obvious, and I suspect there are multiple routes. From camp I stayed on our side of the river until reaching an area of substantial downfall across the river, which is where it was shallow(ish) enough to cross. There was a faint path along the opposite side of the river, with a few scrambly overland bits to circumvent sheer cliffs along the river. I arrived at the tubs as the last group of the day (probably) was departing. I enjoyed the single balcony-style tub for a while, then climbed down to the river to explore where the heated flow was traveling below. I found the remnants of the old river-adjacent tub, which could use a bit of a rebuild to keep the cold river water out. After another fifteen minutes in the big tub, I extracted and returned to camp (and the dog) just as the sun was setting.
I am sure the tubs would be absolutely magical at night, but I don’t think I would be very stoked about those river crossings in the dark.
Day 2: Out, but this time with lunch
One of the best nights of sleep I have ever had in the wilderness. All sound muffled by the river. Comfy mild temperatures. Weary muscles relaxed by geothermal hot springs. A+. It was at this point that I began to reconsider my embargo on never coming out here again, pending the severity of my impending poison oak rash. There is really is no way to prevent contact with a cuddly golden beast (who is probably covered in poison oak) first thing in the morning.
To really solidify the deal, I made the very crucial decision that I WOULD stop at Terrace Creek for a substantial hot lunch break on the return journey, despite the fact that I was a worried about being in the sun for the few miles back to the trailhead (mostly for Shasta’s sake). I ended up devouring a 700 calorie AlpineAire Tuscan Pasta Roma (a fave dehydrated option), while Shasta went water/stick-mad. Going full psycho all over the creek is probably how she encountered a tick nest that resulted in me pulling around 50 of those nasty insects off of her.
I wouldn’t say the last five miles were a breeze, but I thankfully wasn’t questioning why I do this to myself (doesn’t carrying a huge pack over difficult terrain to end up covered in ticks and poison oak sound like a smart life decision?).
Despite the absolute monstrous amount of poison oak we both certainly grazed, I didn’t end up with a single speck of rash. And that sealed my fate – would Sykes again.
Packing Tips
I find it really hard to gauge night time temps, sometimes the forecast seems accurate and sometimes it seems way off. I packed a 20 degree bag and did wake up hot at one point, but was zipped and comfy in the morning. I am a pretty cold sleeper though.
Instead of spending your trip being anxious about poison oak, it would have been smart to pack some Tecnu wipes!
Crocs are a great option for river crossings – they’re light, have a backstrap to prevent the shoe from flying off your foot with the current, and provide toe protection!
For me, packing a dog towel is a non-negotiable, but the temps were so mild that I probably wouldn’t pack a towel for myself again.